Pairing a series of gowns created in the mid-1990s by fashion designer Yeohlee Teng with large-scale oil stick screen prints by artist Richard Serra, this exhibition highlights the rigor of both creator’s explorations of form and space. Although conceived independently and for different purposes, their work shares creative and philosophical connections, including a bold use of geometry and proportion in relation to space and the human form, as well as using the inherent qualities of their materials as the guiding force of their work. This installation highlights the connections shared between the two artists at an intersection of art and fashion.
Yeohlee Teng opened her own fashion house, YEOHLEE, in 1981. Teng's striking, geometrical approach to design has made her name synonymous with modernity and functionalism in fashion. Using a neutral color palette and minimal seaming, she is known for her ability to explore a piece of cloth with mathematical precision, transforming the fabric into a three-dimensional garment with little to no waste. Three of the five gowns featured in this installation are each cut from seven meters of black and ivory double-faced silk satin, and the additional designs follow a similar rigor.
Richard Serra, best known for his large-scale, site-specific sculptures, has been making prints since the early 1970s and continues to create works today with the Los Angeles based printers at Gemini G.E.L. By building up layers of black oilstick on oversized paper, his intensely-textured prints employ experimental processes that expand the boundaries of traditional screen-printing techniques.
Left: Yeohlee Teng, Shelley dress, Fall/Winter 1993-1994. Silk. Collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Yeohlee Teng.
Middle: Yeohlee Teng, Cape (shown with Evening Dress), Fall/Winter 1992–1993. Silk. Collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Yeohlee Teng.
Right: Yeohlee Teng, Keats dress, Spring/Summer 1992. Silk. Collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Yeohlee Teng.
Animation: Yeohlee Teng, Cape with dress, Fall/Winter 1993–1994. Silk. Collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Yeohlee Teng.